6 inch cyclone dust separator

This is why I chose to spend the extra few dollars and go with a real 5 hp Leeson motor. I have customers that are also using these for overspray from powder coating, bead blasting collection andsand blasting cabinets. Updated: January 28, 2014. Most in private industry find that with the all poly filters costing double the blended filters that by the time they factor in the down time and labor to do the washing, that it is easier and less costly to use the blended filters. P.S. Why doesn't yours? Appreciate the link though. I just finished using your resistance calculator and came up with my roughly 3-car garage sized shop and ducting calculating out to 10" of water column inches of resistance not counting the 4.75" for the cyclone. The optimum dimensions for an 18" cyclone would be a 5' long rectangular 9"x4.5" inlet. Does this apply for the STOCK Wood cyclone (with a neutral vane added)? Washing redistributes the filter pores so the filter works almost as good as it did originally. Before leaving this, I do have to point out that my oxygen generator, nebulizer, inhalants, and daily medications cost a whole lot more every month than the cost of a good cyclone with top quality blower and filters. Work by the Cotton researchers found this traditional cyclone gets better separation with a longer cone. All rights reserved. A typical three-car garage sized larger shop needs even bigger equipment. Bill I've had my cyclone for a few years and at first it seemed to work well, but now it does not suck well enough to do a good job of "chip collection" and I find myself having to constantly clean its fine dust filter. I did mount the blower directly to the top of the DDXL, so perhaps the venting was enough to slow air turbulence or I had a leak somewhere. But that's only a guess and a future matter. The design on my spreadsheet is optimized for separating fine wood dust with a relatively small motor and blower. The other method used in industry to know when a filter needs replaced is to use a pressure gauge and measure the static pressure of your system with the same longest run open after every filter cleaning. You will also need to change the inlet, outlet, and upper cylinder meaning basically rebuild a whole new cyclone. Most of the time, I just take off the face plate of the blower and the 9" cyclone outlet ends up defining a 9" blower inlet. Also there is a 1600 CFM plug fan that uses a caged impeller that can work. By Using a 9" cyclone outlet is important, but it also needs to be the right length. So the backup plan was to upgrade to the "Super Dust Deputy XL". They also use less efficient heavy steel impellers that are self-cleaning and can stand some heavy pounding. I have this. Hoods and ducting are far more important than most realize and are well covered on my ducting page. With my shop vac the little Dust Deputy is adequate. Anyone have opinions on whether the clearview is worth the ~$200 premium over the DDXL? This nonsense went on for nearly two decades until individuals started getting access to affordable accurate fine particle counters like the 0.5-micron Dylos Pro counter. Although they offer the 0.5-micron filters, I instead strongly recommend their MERV-15 rated "Nano" filters instead. Clear editor. It took me nearly two years of looking before I found a 15" impeller on eBay because there are too many of us all looking for the same thing. The build your own blower plans on these pages will get you an excellent blower that you can use to power either a cyclone or dust collector. Your original design called for using a 1 to 1.5 hp motor running an 11" impeller, yet that design needs roughly 3/4 hp to just power the cyclone and an 11" impeller is too small to even use the available hp. The large diameter of this outlet minimizes exiting airspeed to reduce turbulence and keep from pulling the fine dust off the cyclone walls. good luck chris . If the price were higher I'd look into a sheet of wacky wood, or maybe sheet metal, for the cone and some steel for a fame to put it all on a cart. When you do this you must use an amperage meter and ensure the motor is not getting so much air it overstresses. For every twenty pounds of sawdust we make, we are also making enough fine dust to cause 15,141 two-car garage sized shops to fail an EPA air quality test, so every 1% missed in collection dumps enough fine dust to cause 151 two-car garage typical sized shops to fail their EPA air quality tests. How much will it cost me to weld on the tabs on my impeller and get it balanced? This is called seasoning. Next replace the cyclone bag or under sized cartridge filters with big enough fine cartridge filters to save your lungs and get rid of the extra back pressure. This protects their impellers as long as the dust bins don't get full from wood knots, cats, and other debris except very fine dust. cyclone dc hover tap zoom I checked for leaks, so I don't think that it. The motor overpowered that as well. Those who make all of these modifications end up with cyclones that only have about 3.5" of static pressure. Most industrial and home built cyclones are pull through units. It is important to make sure the container is airtight for the system to work properly. If I find some folks who like it , I will probably go with East Caroga. Otherwise it will cause the incoming air to "turn the corner" and greatly reduce separation efficiency. A clean new filter will move far more air than a clean but well used filter. I bought a bigger industrial impeller and carefully checked my motor amperage to make sure it stayed in its working range. If we are going to filter, then we really need to upgrade to ensure our unit has enough filter. Still , $200 plus shipping is very tempting. To find the "exact" optimum performance place, use an amp meter on your motor and move the pipe in and out. All of the other repairs will take a lot of time and money, but will not make all that much difference. This lets the separation action go down further and makes for better separation. It is a fact that the 4" ducting we used for chip collection will not support much more than about 450 CFM when powered by a typical hobbyist sized blower. Seals are critical as they change performance throughout the system, whether inexpensive or expensive. View cart for details. The long thin cyclones you see need far bigger motors, do a great job on chip collection separation, and blow the fine dust away outside. Upload or insert images from URL. Open all up and while wearing your respirator mask use a leaf blower or large air compressor to blow all out thoroughly while a strong fan blows out a side or back door. 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There are about seven major styles of cyclone design. How would that compare to the WOOD plan with the neutral vane?? Wynn Environmental now offers their filter pans that will add 30 more square feet of very high quality fine filter area and a nice pan to capture the fine dust when you clean your filters. And if you really want to do it right, toss that cyclone and go build a new one from my web pages. Two different types of fine filters are used with woodworking, blended polyester cellulose filters and the roughly twice as expensive all polyester filters. They can block airflow dead when dirty. To meet EPA and medical air quality recommendations you really should use a 5 hp motor turning a 15" diameter impeller. Maybe an East Caroga metal cyclone, or a slightly bigger alternative . Dust collectors use impeller blowers that work the hardest when they push the most air. It takes over a year for most small shop filters to fully season, meaning they carry as much dust stuck in their filters as they will carry through a normal cleaning session. Then do a meter reading of the outside air, the air in your shop before it gets stirred up, and another reading after you turn on your cyclone for five minutes. Do you think if I picked up that second 10" fan and housing cheap that putting them in series would be as good or better than a 2 or 3hp 12" or 14" fan?? This consistency lets us check a fan curve from any of the major name blower makers to size our blower. Additional information will also be given on each products page. Yes, the key here is to make sure that it is big enough to not create a fast airflow out and long enough. Many small shop vendors would like us to think sizing our filter is rocket science because most have serious problems with using fine filters. You mention the outlet should extend only 2.25" below the inlet. cyclone sandblaster That is generally with the pipe ending very close to the center edge of the cyclone (a perpendicular line at the end of your inlet pipe would go right through the center of the cyclone looking from above). Actually, my spreadsheet wants the outlet to extend 1/8 of the outer diameter below the inlet, including neutral vane. It does not make sense that barrel is getting emptied by the cyclone/blower. Amazon Prime. Bill I've had my cyclone for a few years and at first it seemed to work well, but now it does not suck well enough to do a good job of "chip collection" and I find myself having to constantly clean its fine dust filter. There must be a leak somewhere. Those with 2 and 3 hp motors are the ones who invariably find their systems work well at first then later work poorly. Stalling also causes the impeller to vibrate bad enough to soon ruin motor bearings. I have incorporated into these units inlet and outlet sizes which are compatible with dust collectors. To keep our vertical ducting runs from plugging we must have about 4000 FPM airspeed. So my question for the forum is if anyone has any experience building a large cyclone, and if so, do you recommend the build or just buy? Air will not speed up much at all to get around a short restriction, so any reduction will just plain kill your airflow well below the 800 CFM required at each larger woodworking machine. I have recently upgraded my 2HP Harbor Freight unit, that had a Wynn Filter and Super Dust Deputy, with a Grizzly G0562. It is also typical of those with 2-car garage sized shops with lots of ducting and quite a few Ts and Ls with tight bends. For those who made early designs with only a 4" or 5" cyclone inlet pipe, you really need to open up the inlet port to 6". This 5' distance is the minimum needed to smooth the airflow and result in far better fine particle separation and more dust pickup at your machines. The first and most important serious modification is to go with 6" ducting and 6" flex hose right to your machines and change all the machine ports to full 6" inlets. Amazon Best Sellers At the typical volumes and pressures used in dust collection we need 6" duct to move 800 CFM. Extending that inlet by adding an extension that goes to the center edge of the cyclone generates about 1/3 less turbulence improving airflow, but does little to reduce the amount of fine dust going into our filters. Air engineers design for that 800 CFM at each larger machine and they also configure their systems with enough blower to make sure the air speed stays around 4000 feet per minute (FPM) which is needed to keep vertical duct from plugging. Add a circular 360 degree air dam better known as an air ramp with the inlet appropriately tilted. Clearvue sells their cyclone bodies separately for $450. If you can find someone in your area with these tools, they get to name their own price. inlet I wonder about the blower being too strong for the Dust Deputy XL. The minimums are one square foot of all polyester filter material for every eight CFM of airflow and one square foot of blended filter for every four CFM of airflow for the blended filters. When you next turn on your cyclone these dust coated filters fill our shops with that static collected fine dust, so we do this clean out and external filter cleaning to make sure it is not there. Most small shops are typical two-car garage sized and typical shops need at least a 2 hp DC or 3 hp cyclone to get good chip collection and a full 3 hp DC or 5 hp cyclone to get good fine dust collection. That could be brilliant or a really bad idea! One of my friend's kids closed the last open duct on the same design cyclone that did not have the recommended wooden rings to keep all round. If you open the ports or change the blower, you need to test your unit. I am considering the Oneida Super Dust Deputy XL. If you are just using the cyclone with a dust collector connected with a flex hose, and not close, it doesn't matter which side the inlet on the cyclone is located. Yep, in spite of the noise these things take it easy when they are not working and should be left on instead of being constantly turned on and off. A better solution is to shop for a 5 hp pump motor, rebuild it yourself and then buy a 15" impeller. Amazon Daily Deals oneida Otherwise you will have poor collection, constantly have to clean filters, and way too often need to replace your fine filters. Many engineered DC's I see about the countryside seem to have very short cylinders and very long (by comparison) cones and now that you mention it, rectangular inlets also. On the other hand, opening all up wide especially with a bigger impeller can draw enough amps to quickly burn up a motor. They use thePittsburgh lock procedure for seams and some seams are alsosoldered. I am also looking for advice on this. But that would probably defeat whole purpose of increased suction. I think that is too much to pay! | oneida You cannot paste images directly. And yes, the 5 hp motor and 16" impeller are both needed to overcome the resistance of your shop. These cyclones are approx. You need to use an amp meter to make sure you don't have a problem. This can save nearly a full horsepower on the cyclone motor. If you supercharge the amount of air going in with a series of blowers all the blowers get so much air their motors can quickly burn out. The following are a few examples of dust collector fan motors that you would use with this left hand inlet cyclone if you are building a tower: Jet DC-1100, Jet DC-1200, Jet DC-1900, Powermatic P1300, Powermatic PM1900, General 10-105, Craftsman 1 1/2hp, Delta 50-850 and Bridgewood BW-105H. How much air we need to move is simply 350 CFM at most larger stationary tools if we want good "chip collection" which picks up the same stuff we would otherwise sweep up with a broom. If the meter pegs reads real high then you need to leave the cyclone running and see if your shop air quickly recovers. These cyclones stop the inlet right at the surface of the outer cylinder. This roughly one third increase in total filter area will immediately let you know if the issue is poorly sized filters. All told I probably have $5-600 invested in this, if I were smarter I would have bought a grizzly cyclonebut then it's harder to slide $800 past the wife at once rather than $150 here and there. As a result these cyclones send almost all of the fine dust right into the filters. Just keep an eye on it when planning as that seems to be the only time there is a problem. Putting two bigger motors on that same blower that run at exactly the same speed shows they do not have a clue. The following are a few examples of dust collector fan motors that you would use with this left hand inlet cyclone if you are building a tower: Jet DC-1100, Jet DC-1200, Jet DC-1900, Powermatic P1300, Powermatic PM1900, General 10-105, Craftsman 1 1\/2hp, Delta 50-850 and Bridgewood BW-105H. Picking up locally is often less expensive. 600c Using a particle meter will tell you quickly if you need to replace your filters. Most will have their meters all but peg due to the poor collection of their cyclones. What is going on and what can I do to fix my cyclone? In many cases our particle meters tell us we don't need to replace filters, so paying for an expensive upgrade to get more surface area is foolish because there is a better option. What would you recommend? Go to a good fan table for material handling blowers, locate the column that has the same maximum static pressure as estimated for our system then pick the first impeller size that will move as much air as we want, generally 350 CFM for chip collection or 1000 CFM for fine dust collection. As soon as the pressure drops two water column inches below the fully seasoned pressure level it is time to toss and replace your filters. You can post now and register later. Have a new cone made up that's the length you recommended? If we use these units with fine filters we end up putting one pound of filter clogging airborne dust into our filters with every twenty pounds of dust we create. The bottom line still ends up the same, you can make things better, but if you don't have the right sized blower and cyclone you will still have fine dust collection issues. If buy is the recommendation, any economical options out there? Make sure your thoroughly blow down the outside of your filter as well. If you have really good dust collection and your shop air remains clean then no filter problems. We really need at least a 3 hp dust collector or a 5 hp cyclone vented outside to be assured of moving enough air for good fine dust collection. I have the CV1800 cyclone and 16" fan, 5HP. What will happen is the static pressure will build as the filter seasons then hold fairly steady for a while. ( I have the Grizzly G0562Z 3 HP dust collector. Like the PSI, this design makes the air "turn the corner" a little early causing the larger planner chips to hang suspended and clog the cone. These units are not self cleaning like typical material handling dust collector impellers. Good luck with whatever you do and let us know how it works. One guy (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ofYQCAgP2Ts) has a blower that I believe is slightly stronger than the Grizzly you have and has great performance. I powered it with my Jet 1.5 hp DC-1100 with an 11" impeller. Effects on performance???? If we do not collect the fine dust, then even the finest filter in the world will not protect us. If the cone is too short for the cylinder what about shortening the cylinder? The push through design increases your risk by not protecting the impeller from material hits.

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