how to flush mercury 2 stroke outboard

Carbie two-stroke Thruster, 2, 2.2, 2.5, 3.3, 4 and 5. So we are making our first forays into flushing. The prop is so easy to remove and replace, I would advise never flushing it in a bucket or bin with the prop on. Simply tape up the main intake, turn on the water and flush the engine for around 10 minutes. JavaScript is disabled. A thermostat maintains running temperatures in a relatively narrow band so the cooling passages can be larger, allowing for a larger volume of water and more effective heat absorption from the cylinders. Replace all recycling in bin. Before flushing muffs became common when outboard manufacturers started locating cooling water intakes just above the gear case torpedo, the traditional way of flushing small outboards was to mount the outboard in a drum, then fill the drum with fresh water until the cooling water intake was well immersed. The M4 and M5B should be flushed in reverse at fast idle. Our experiments in our wheelie bin suggest that we will end up with water everywhere if we try to do it in our boat's cockpit with a bucket; we don't want to have to remove the prop every time, we've abused the split pin enough replacing the impellor. Extremely messy, but did the job. You must log in or register to reply here. Small four-stroke outboards use very little oil in comparison to carbie two-strokes so flushing in a drum is unlikely to give them the oil-coating issue. Thanks for the suggestions, I guess we will be using a bucket; But if anyone has come up with something cunning for the end of a hose, I'd love to know about it. Raw-water-cooled outboards are designed to run no hotter than about 65C to prevent the rapid accumulation of these crystals. To prevent the engine running too cold when trolling, the passages are smaller than theyd be were a thermostat fitted, and these small passages are more susceptible to clogging. we've abused the split pin enough replacing the impellor we don't put it in gear though, on the couple of occasions we've tried that, the buckets split - perhaps we need better quality buckets? It's an idea but I'm still hoping for a solution with the hose that doesn't involve running the engine though. I find at least 10min at fast idle is needed to open the thermostat and flush crystals from around it and the cooling passages. The 5 should be flushed in reverse at fast idle to load the engine but avoid ejecting water from the drum. Hence the old adage that taking a US outboard for a long run would flush the cooling system, almost eliminating the need for regular freshwater flushing. So with that lesson learned, the Tohatsu M8B Ive been testing for 12 years has always been flushed using muffs and its never had an overheating problem. US-made outboards such as Mercury and Evinrude/Johnson use either die casting or lost-foam casting that enables extremely low-copper alloy to be used. This should be flushed in reverse at fast idle. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Unfortunately, the Mariner/Mercury 2.5 2 stroke doesn't have gear lever. Carbie two-stroke DT2, DT2.2, DT3.5, DT4 and DT5 (single and twin-cylinder). Fill with fresh water and run the engine, preferably with a hose pipe running throughout. We had a hose attached to the threaded the coolant outflow, and had a 12 pump attached to the end of the hose. Crystal accumulation not only depends on how hot the engine is running but also the type of alloy used in its construction. Tie a length of rope through each hole, tie that over the outboard or to the pushpit after slipping the fender over the outboard leg. Not only does this save water and fuel but also avoids annoying your neighbours by running the engine late at night after a full days fishing. Well, you could just take it home whenever you can and flush it properly. The outboard is too old (we think) to have the thread so that a flushing attachment can be used. A smaller drum with overflowing water helps get rid of the oil and is really the only way of flushing outboards under 4hp. This clogging happens more rapidly in engines without a thermostat. Evinrude, Mercury and Tohatsu have flushing attachments that create a backwash around the thermostats and flush out the cooling passages without needing to run the engine. You may consistently get away with it but it remains an easily avoided risk. Carbie two-stroke 1.5, Colt, Junior, 2.3 and 3.3, 4 and 5 (single-cylinder). The twin-cylinder Evinrude and Johnson 5 plus the 6, 8 and old above-prop exhaust 25 have special attachments that clip around the intake ahead of the exhaust outlet. However, with the two-strokes that dont have thermostats its better to run them in gear in a flushing drum to raise engine temperature and flush out those unwanted aluminium chloride crystals. We've just acquired a 1996 Mariner 2.5hp 2 stroke outboard for our tender. Few of these have thermostats so running them in gear at fast idle creates some engine load and heat to remove more crystals than if they were just idled in neutral. This is essential with carbie two-strokes as some of the air/fuel mix escapes with the burnt gases, and the better the scavenging the more efficient the combustion process. However, flushing is more effective if the engine has a thermostat, as running a non-thermostat engine under no load never removes all the crystals. Cut the top off an old fender large enough to fit over the prop and cavitation plate. The trouble with this technique for carbie two-strokes is that they dump excess oil into the water, which is pumped up the cooling passages where it coats the walls and bonds to the alloy particularly sand cast reducing the effectiveness of the cooling system. Drive home with petrol fumes because we didn't run the carb dry. Does anyone know of any sneaky diy or aftermarket method of flushing through with a hose that doesn't involve getting soaked? Cut a couple of holes in the new rim, I found a large wad punch the best, about an inch diameter seems to work well. Ah yes. This alloy has a fine grain that doesnt snag the aluminium chloride crystals. Four-stroke F2.5 and F3.5, if not using the backwash attachment. Carbie two-stroke M2.5, M3.5A, M3.5B, M4 and M5B. Next weekend, cram outboard in car with all our other boat $h!t and find that not all the petrol has evaporated yet. Can it be done without running the engine? IMHO rather a dangerous method, even with the prop removed, an accident waiting to happen. Outboards such as Tohatsus, Japanese-built Mercurys from 15hp upwards and Suzukis from 25hp upwards have auxiliary cooling-water intakes that need to be taped up before attaching the muffs, otherwise the impellers will suck air, run dry and be ruined. Remove bit of shredded paper that blocks tell tale. BF5. Never run out of fuel while flushing a carbie two-stroke the lack of fuel also means no oil, so the bearings could be damaged and cylinder walls scuffed. drag engine to car and cram in with all the other boat $h!t. However, Japanese outboards have traditionally used a high-copper alloy that is needed for easier pouring into sand castings. The trouble is that when the engine is running at full load, such as at wide-open throttle, salt crystals separate from salt water and lodge in the cooling passages. It's our first outboard and in virtually new condition so we want to look after it proper, like . Cooling water in the cylinder block and head absorbs heat from the combustion process and mixes with gases in the exhaust system to cool them and help scavenge the exhaust system. The engine would then be run for five minutes in the belief the crystals would be flushed out. But oh, how wrong I was! The 4 and 5 should be flushed in reverse at fast idle. In reality the crystals aint salt theyre aluminium chloride formed from the reaction between salt water and the aluminium passages. Evinrude four-stroke 3.5, if not using the backwash attachment. Four-stroke MFS2.5 and MFS3.5 if not using the backwash attachment. Install engine and flush, thus disturbing our neighbours quiet evening.

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