linotype lead hardness

Lead does not give off fumes below 900F, but above 900 it does, and the fumes are odourless and colourless.I am perfectly happy to keep using WW type alloys and then when a harder alloy is required, I can heat treat to reach max hardness and anneal to bring that hardness back down to whatever is needed. Lets be real here , Swiss cheese is only better on a burger when cheddar is not available. Knowledge is power. Alox tumble lube is also pretty cheap and easy. What you need to watch is that your linotype is not something else. I have run into softer ones. Not too surprisingly, different materials expand and contract at different rates. Yes Lino is lighter and it throws a bigger bullet. Hard lead ships better, and is better able to handle things like being loaded into a tubular magazine with a stiff spring. I don't know the exact ratio you should use, I can tell you what I do and it might not be the proper mixture. Duane Mellenbruch Topeka, KS And that, ladies and gentlemen, is why both the MythBusters and Jack Lewis noticed that the silver bullets were smaller than they should be. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. You don't need to worry too much about the content of scrap. shastaboat wrote: I use 7 ingots of WW and 3 ingots of LT.. Works well for me. In recent times the specs have gotten slack in my part of the world and my tests show that 2 - 3% antimony can be expected. I prefer not to work with the temperatures required to melt Antimony (1149 F) because of the toxic exposure to antimony and lead fumes. You can ignore tin in your calcs. The one we're interested in is "Resistance of metal to plastic deformation". The home made lube known as "Felix Lube" on cast Boolits seems to be great, but I was never willing to go to through the hassle of making it. Getting the mold up to 207F for lead isn't too tough, but the silver mold needs to be nearly 600F. For sure. Wheelweights are still available locally for free at local gas stations. Forum, Outdoor Hub, LLC (d/b/a Carbon Media Group), 30800 Telegraph Rd, Suite 1921, Bingham Farms, MI 48025 USA. Break out the hot-pads grandma, she's getting warm. billwnr wrote: Wheelweights are still available locally for free at local gas stations. WW is .5% tin, 2% antimony, 97.5% lead. Thanks for the input. I can't guarantee exact uniformity batch to batch but I get very close, within half a grain bullet weight, and I can get closer with some extra work. I have quite a bit of Linotype that a printer friend gave me and it is harder than the WW lead that I have. Both its melting point and it's coefficient of thermal expansion are higher. I see that one reply mentions monotype. A silver bullet might not be so accomodating, so we need to absolutely sure they don't exceed the bore diameter. I am fortunate to have collected various lead and alloys over the years. I found that straight linotype would splatter on a metal target using my rcbs kieth 250gr GC. There is, however, a line, beyond which tolerance ceases to be a virtue, The Fora platform includes forum software by XenForo, http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?168373-simple-lube, Outdoor Hub, LLC (d/b/a Carbon Media Group), 30800 Telegraph Rd, Suite 1921, Bingham Farms, MI 48025 USA. All that is required is a known temperature in the oven, a consistanttemperature in that oven and attention to the time. The ideal bullet, therefore, packs a lot of mass in a small volume -- which is the definition of density. It is the presence of thezinc that adversely affects the casting quality of the alloy. Before you can pour metal in a mold, you have to melt it. The harder the metal, the more energy is required to deform it. All that is required is a known temperature in the oven, a consistanttemperature in that oven and attention to the time.I'd find the extra operation of heat treatment too much bother, but if you can get the required hardness from free wheelweights, it makes sense. I found that if I use 4 parts WW to 1 part linotype, the leading is down to a minimum, they drive a bit deeper into the target, and they dont splatter. Thanks guys for the input. I have ~100# of linotype that came out of an old printing plant. Jeez, the mould itself is older than I am, and I'm 63! Three pounds of pure lead for each pound of linotypeshould make a real nice alloy. Good shooting' to y'all. Tapping them on a hard object gave a tinny sound compared to lead. One could make a sizing die that's a little smaller than one designed for lead bullets, mount it in a press that's been modified to handle the higher pressures needed to form silver, and get good results. Well the 500 gr. They are supposed to be 0.50% tin 4% antimony. I was blessed to come into a significant quantity of linotype and I mix it the same as mik, 50/50. If a man has nothing greater to believe in than himself, he is a very lonely man. First, when the bullet is being loaded, it's run through a sizing die, which insures the bullet is no larger in diameter than it should be. Linotype is getting scarce because it is obsolete in the printing trade. Meeting that standard is exactly my point. The CBA is a international organization of shooters who enjoy casting and shooting lead alloy bullets for competition, hunting, experimenting, and casual shooting. were wieghing out around 450 gr. If I manage to overcome the casting difficulties, it should be possible to get ballistic performance on par with hard lead bullets. Can't tell you the Brinell hardness, but I used a mixture of one pound of Lino to two pounds of WW for many years for my high velocity magnum pistol loads, Up to 1500 FPS. And they are not available except in small quantities and sporadically at that. I agree that it is not advisable to work with lead at more than 800F. During the last several years, the available linotype seems to be getting harder to find. The appeal of using ww alloy isgrowing dim but not because of the weak amount of antimony. 4/12 Linotype is good material for rifle bullets, but if we are talking cost, you could probably get the same alloy cheaper by adding antimony to wheelweights. I have a twenty pound Lee pot which started out full of lead from wheel weights. JavaScript is disabled. Have a question? Old wheel weights were fairly hard, not much different than linotype. It would consume some energy, so the bullet may not fly as far or as fast, but nobody's going to get hurt. Lyman lists linotype as having a BHN of 22, and wheel weights (not hardened) as having a BHN of 9. I used to cast a lot of 500 grain bullets for my 1886 Winchester. When I first got into casting a couple years ago I tried wheel weights and found a lot of them were zinc. A silver bullet is going to take a lot more force, which may break the reloading press. I suggest 50/50 which will give you 6%. Both have higher resale values than wheel weights. Learn from CBA members that have been casting their entire life. You can't beat simple lube for it's simplicity. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Your campfire's going to need some help, and your soup can may not fare so well. Also, remember that chemical reactions (like oxidation) happen faster at higher temperatures. I am not acompetition shooter, and I am not a hunter, but I do like to hit the mark I am shooting at. A BHN of 100 would require chamber pressures of over 140,000 psi to obturate, which is far higher than any handheld firearm is designed for. "Professing themselves to be wise, they became fools" The Apostle Paul in Romans 1:22. I thought wheel weights were generally a little harder than lino? More accurately, fire up a muffler furnace to pre-heat the mold, and handle it with tongs. I am not acompetition shooter, and I am not a hunter, but I do like to hit the mark I am shooting at. Anybody knowledgable as to the Brinell hardness I can expect? That's good news, because it means that reloaders already have experience in loading and shooting hard materials. When a metal is plasticly deformed (molded like play dough), it tends to "rebound" a bit. The comments so far are not far off but it depends what you think linotype is and what wheelweight alloy is. I would think this is a waste of good linotype and pure lead. All things being equal, harder bullets tend to consume more energy than soft ones, and show correspondingly lower muzzle velocities. But I can. You can safely assume that wheelweights contain 3% antimony. That's not a very good formula but that is what I do! Some of the shooters believe a softer bullet is better for that disciplin than one with lino added. I use linotype in my match bullets and pay over $1 per pound. In any case the diff can't be significant unless the quantity is quite high. Dicko, when we shoot military rifles the velocity usually doesn't exceed 1600 fps and wheelweights are satisfactory for that. But my point about blending your own alloy is not just cost, it is the flexibility of being able to blend any alloy from any scrap lead source, anytime. In South Africa we have not had free wheelweights for years and linotype is rare. Never had leading problems. JavaScript is disabled. Friction (air resistance) eats away at that energy, slowing the bullet as it goes down range. The problem is that what you're really doing is bringing the mold up to a reasonable fraction of the temperature of the molten metal. I personally shoot a 70/30 mix of lino/wheelweights as I use the same alloy I use for the 2000fps benchrest competition. That's real independence and that's really my message. Now its plumbers lead and superhard alloy for me. I would also use them if I could get them for nothing but they are not free in South Africa, they cost the same as all scrap lead, about 50 US cents a pound. I have been working with antimony ingots and find that they will disolve into soft lead alloy given enough time and the proper conditions. And that's where this is heading. Here's what we learned from looking at the physical properties of silver: Casting silver bullets won't be as easy as I'd hoped, but I haven't found any reason why it can't work. Sothe 9% antimony you have to buy, and thus your entire alloy cost is $0.60, only half what you are cheerfully paying for linotype. Linotype runs 21-22 BHN and pure lead is around 6. Silver rebounds more than lead, in fact quite a bit more. In fact, some of the lead alloys being used are very nearly as hard as pure silver. If a cast lead bullet is a thousandth or two oversized, it's pretty easy to re-shape it. In many werewolf books, the hero or heroine melts down an old silver coin or piece of jewelry (usually with appropriate sentimental value) to make the bullet that ultimately kills the werewolf. But it depends on the availability of both materials and leads me to wonder yet again why there is so much reluctance to take control over accurate alloy blending so that any and all available sources can be used as and when available. However, that's a lot of money -- I'm going to try to accomplish the same thing by casting the bullet to the right size (or really, really close), and eliminiating the need for the resizing die to do much of anything. Soon after that they started refitting them to cars and the supply dried up. The " stick on, double sided tape on" wheel weights are darn near pure lead, adding some of them to the batch should soften your harder alloy. If a metal bar is extruded through a hole of exactly 0.5 inch, you won't actually get a 0.5 inch bar, you'll produce something a few thousandths of an inch bigger. As long as the bullet is sufficiently hard to handle the pressures, I care little about the excessive hardness of the alloy. Come join the discussion about optics, hunting, gunsmithing, styles, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more! Look for your answers in our Forum and in our bi-monthly publication the Fouling Shot. If you mix 3 to 1 with pure lead you will get 1.33% tin 3% antimony. Works fine for magnum bullets and slower rifle calibers like 30-30, 30-40, 35, and 32 Spl. The need to flux, or possibly even create an intert atmosphere for the casting is much higher with silver than lead. From input in talking to others that cast their own, Lymans cast data, and other forums, I am going to try 25% linotype and 75% COWW. And for a long time blended one part linotype with 3 parts WW which was fine for my revolver shooting, and light to moderate loads in center fire rifles like the 30-06. I am considering going to a softer alloy to test out some of the other shooters ideas. Dicko wrote: billwnr wrote: I would think this is a waste of good linotype and pure lead. That would have the benefit of consistent supply because, as far as I can gather, wheelweights are generally available in the US but linotype is scarce everywhere because of the demise of traditional typesetting. So is plumber's lead considered pure lead? Lubed them with either RoosterLabs' Zambini Red or Thompson's Blue Angel. The riflings also etch into the bullet, and begin rotating it. Duane Mellenbruch Topeka, KS. If I wanted it easy I would just buy the bullets. And for a long time blended one part linotype with 3 parts WW which was fine for my revolver shooting, and light to moderate loads in center fire rifles like the 30-06. How can I tell? Made some bullets from them but the consistency wasnt good. Prepping to get into casting bullets. If I cast a .444 Marlin bullet from lead, I want a final diameter of exactly .430 inches. A three pound block takes about twenty minutes to dissolve in lead at about 750F. I have found the average antimony content accross the board to be about 1%. The molds are actually a cut couple of thousandths bigger than the desired bullet size, so that the cooled bullets work out to be the right size. In order to fire safely in an unmodified gun, and engage the riflings properly, a silver bullet needs to be fit to a much higher precision than a lead bullet. During the last several years, the available linotype seems to be getting harder to find. Won't know until it warms up this spring since all the work will be done in an unheated garage. But that is true only if the linotype is a true 4/12 and the lead is pure. When you pour a bullet, the material initially forms to the mold cavity then freezes when it drops below the melting point. I consider that too soft but then I consider wheelweights too soft. I fully understand the appeal of a material that is readily available and free. My point about cost was that you can blend it for the same cost or less. What ever you are casting for make sure that you need to use Lino or you are wasting good alloy. I'd go down to the local salvage yard and buy wheelweights if it was me. Dicko wrote: Wheelweights are a good and convenient material but it is not a good idea to rely on them or their content. But just be aware of it. They also form sharper edges from the mold. Of course the only result is that you'll get damn hard bullets which is OK. Even worse, a slightly oversize lead bullet will be extruded into the barrel when fired.

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