Weight does definitely NOT always mean thread thickness! . is not only a policeman but also a thread wound on a solid core (plastic or paper) into a shape like a cylinder. The chart compares various bonded nylon (or polyester) thread sizes and combines all in an easy to read sewing thread size chart: The V size is the common US measurement for twisted, multi-ply bonded nylon or polyester threads. Have you ever wondered what the letters in thread sizes stood for? Larger numbers indicate heavier threads. Its an important decision. I hope that helps! And with the naked eye, I dont see a huge difference in thread diameter from the one above! Webbing is usually a loose enough weave that round point will go through just fine. You can usually see a clear difference in thread thickness if you compare two spools of thread that are the same size. V-69 is the heaviest commercial size recommended for home sewing machines. Threads come generally in a limited number of packages, mostly depending on the amount of thread. Here are 19 sewing applications that typically use polyester thread and the range of thread sizes that can be used with each. A spool is generally under 3 (7.5cm) long, the one here is about 2x3/4 (5cmx2cm). Hi Ragani, how do you calculate % of the needle eye? I think its good to know how they categorize threads by their sizes. Please note: Lightweight and Middleweight - Sizes 15 to 138. . We all know that the thread tension on a sewing machine has to be set depending on the thread size. This can also be expressed as metric 50. I have an Elna 6003 and learned the largest needle that machine can use is a 16. However I personally have real doubts this is what the number means and I presented it to show that even when the manufacturer does put a label, you need to be careful! Tex is the weight (in grams) of 1,000 meters of thread. The thread thickness depends on the density of the thread, and the fibers used. Both these threads look the same in diameter/thickness to my naked eye. While we are talking about sewing thread sizes I need to mention the quite obvious fact that threads are also different in length we have small spools and big cones. For example, in the image below you can see the same size spools but the spool to the left (with brown thread) has 110 yards of thread, and the spool to the right has 274 yards, and this tells us that the green thread is much thinner. Are all the charts wrong or do I need a Math lesson. But the question is how do we determine what thread is thinner and what thread is thicker? We based our chart off of what our manufacturers say and A&E threads claim that their V-138 is T-135 as seen in this document (under Anefil Polyester): http://www.amefird.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/5-Thread-Size-Comparison-Chart-2-4-10.pdf Youll see that their next size of this particular thread is a T-210, so there may be an element of rounding down to get to the T-135. Sergers use almost exclusively cones because of the large amount of thread used. If 9,000 meters weighs 70 grams, its a 70-denier thread. or Den. I work with textiles for a living, and have put together an Excel spreadsheet of various thread designations, including material, size, TEX, tensile strength, weight, and diameter. Will the V-69 thread be strong enough for holding the Sunbrella fabric for the sling seats of these deck chairs? Youre right, Sue! Heavier threads are used when having stitches become a focal point is needed. Below are some examples from my collection. This thread SHOULD be the same thing as metric 120. In the images above I have 2 very different threads, one is all purpose thread polyester, Sometimes, not always, the thread weight (. Change), You are commenting using your Twitter account. International Organization for Standardization (IOS) as the measurement unit for thread density and as such is probably going to increase in popularity. With 5% added for twist contraction the total Denier is 662. Is this a secret password for a new game? Sometimes the 1 is omitted so you may encounter simply 240D. (or Tex.or Den. This is in reality not something the home user should be concerned about, the ticket number for a thread is only an internal reference number the manufacturer uses to identify the thread. Thread size numbering can be explainedutilizing several numbering systems,all of whichare classifiedas either Direct or Indirect Count Systems. . There are times when polyester thread should not be used: Technically, our polyester thread is called filament polyester. Update(11/19/2014): One of our readers, Sue L., sent in a Thread Size Cross Reference Chart that she put together to assist her with her work in the textile industry. With the note that only embroidery thread is labeled in denier. Please call us at 800-915-2320 when you need a precise color match. We have Thread Cone Holders (right) that solve this problem by feeding thread into your machine. Why? Here are U.S. military specifications (MIL-DTL-32072 / VT-285F) for polyester thread. But how do you decide how much bobbin tension to start with??? Use our Thread Information pages or just call us for help buying the right thread. I think you have read many times this recommendation: for lightweight fabric use a thinner thread, for heavyweight fabric use a thicker thread. . is wound on a support with a wider base to allow it to sit better on support. A good rule of thumb I use is cutting type points are used on leather. The finer the thread (thinner, lighter), the lower the tex number. Below is common industrial sewing thread sizes listed by, Tex size, Ticket number, government size and the constructions by Denier. Up or down? There were actually a few I left out, opting to only highlight the most popular ones since there are so many! A cone can support high speed sewing and is equally used for industrial sewing machines. Commercial Sizes (V): Commercial sizes are used for heavy-duty threads for sewing heavy upholstery, canvas or webbing. We could categorize them as: Now you know what all these numbers on threads mean and hopefully, you are not going to be so confused anymore by all the different numbering systems for the sewing thread size. It is the weight (in grams) of 9,000 meters (or 9 km) of thread. You can email it to me at nikkid@sailrite.com. Do heavier threads require more tension? really still used at all for sewing? For any given thread, you can adjust the upper and lower tension to both be high or both be low, and the knot will still form mid-fabric. Tex 20 to Tex 69 (regular), Heavy Tex Threads . I couldnt find a reference to the origin of the name tex, as opposed to denier (which seems to originate in the name of an old French coin). Less stretchy such as Kevlar, waxed thread, and cord and string are usually better choices. There are a number of comprehensive articles on Wikipedia (Thread (yarn), Units of Textile Measurement) which you may want to consult for more obscure units. I once again find myself spending a significant amount of time both reading and commenting. This measurement is the weight in grams of 9000 meters of thread (9km). I would recommend a size #21 or #22 needle and V-138 thread. Could I return it for the V-69 if it would work for my sewing machine. Bookbinding requires heavy duty machines that can go through leather and paper. This means 2 strands twisted together, each strand 120 denier for a total of 240 denier for the thread. If another weight is given for thread (like ounces), it refers to the amount of thread on the spool. Now that I have been reading this, I am wondering if thread this heavy will work on my sewing machine or cause me problems with my tension. Most of it I pieced together off the http://www.thethreadexchange.com website (to which I have no connection or reason to promote beyond the fact that it is informative). For nylon only 210 Denier is available, so 3 plies equal 630 Denier. The usual instructions tell you how, once the bobbin tension is set, to adjust the upper tension to bury the knot. Thanks. Hi Kevin, When we add a color, the thread is photographed under controlled lighting conditions. Both of these are Tex 70 and Ticket number (Tkt.) For something labeled in tex, it would be somewhere around tex 25, and for threads marked in denier, it would be 225. The most common units used for classifying thread sizes are Weight (wt), Denier (den) and Tex. Thread thickness requirements increase as banner area increases. Note: First responder clothing and gear should use Kevlar or Fire Retardant Thread. or Den. Ecommerce Shopping Cart Software by Miva, Inc. 291-A Merrimon Avenue Weaverville, NC 28787. If you are using polyester thread to hang, reinforce or bind, you should consider its elongation. If its a silk thread its probably good for lightweight fabric (and I can say I used it numerous times for my silk projects) is it thinner than polyester thread? Ill email you directly with information on how to exchange your thread. The following table is imported directly from the Wikipedia article I cited above. And a thread is always used (well, almost always) in combination with a needle, so at some point, we have to deal with the thread size together with the recommended needle size. To sew a large cone of thread on your home sewing machine, you can use one of our industrial thread stands or put your cone of thread on the floor with the thread pulling off the top of the cone and thread it into your machine as usual. Yes, its still used to this day, as you can see, even if not for regular sewing thread, but mostly for embroidery thread. The subject of sewing thread sizes is a vast one but the one you need to understand if you want to master sewing. Threads are not always marked with their size in Wt., Tex. greater weight) doesnt always mean a thicker thread or a stronger thread. It was very important then to get the exact thread size for. A lower weight number (i.e. Just for your information, there are many other measurement units for the sewing thread sizes ( in addition to weight, tex, and den.) Or, in other words, 1,000 meters of thread that weighs 1 gm. When we use a thicker thread for sewing we need to decrease the tension a bit, and when we use a thinner thread for the lightweight fabric we need to increase the tension for the stitches to look nice. When you go to compare the size of two different threads, youll want to make sure youre comparing apples to apples. The following table is imported directly from the Wikipedia article I cited above. Denier also measures thread at a fixed length. Brands like Sunbrella and Tenara come with replacement guarantees and UV treated nylon and polyester threads will out perform regular polyester. Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. We never stop learning, or sharing what weve learned! If so, will the bobbin tension still need adjusting? Weight of a thread is the length (in kilometers) of a length of thread that weighs 1 kilogram. That number signifies the number of individual strands of thread that are twisted together to make the final product. Getting the proper thickness affects the strength, diameter, sewing machine used, and visibility. Suffice to say, this is used mostly for industrial threads, good to know it exists, glad I can ignore it! Density gives the thickness of the thread, and that depends both on the material and the construction method. At one time, Id found a way to cross-reference thread types (say maybe 33wt) to approximate thread diameter so I could find my scale size. I would be happy to post your spreadsheet here, thank you for sharing. When only the total Denier is known, to determine a filament thread Tex size you must multiply the Denier by 0.1111 -. which you may want to consult for more obscure units. can be expressed also as T only followed by a number; this label means the same as tex 52. Heavier threads make your stitching more visible. Test it out. This is in reality not something the home user should be concerned about, the ticket number for a thread is only an internal reference number the manufacturer uses to identify the thread. If it is taking up more room than that you either need a bigger needle for that thread size or to use a smaller thread. Did you find this tutorial helpful? This means that you might slightly more or slightly less thread on any spool and use the term "nominal" weight in our descriptions. (3000 m), Tex 165 - Waxed Linen Blend - 0.018" (0.64 mm), Waxed Embalmers - (Taxidermy) Thread - 2 and 3 Ply, Polyester Linen Blend Tex 165: 0.45 mm / 0.018 In (18/1000"). the thickness of the thread can be deceiving when you look at it. I appreciate your attention to detail. Doug, If weight is 40, it takes a length of 40km to make 1kg of thread. This means 2 strands twisted together, each strand, This label 27 wt denotes a thread having the, Similar to the one above, this is a thread of, This shows the thread is a polyester thread of, Units used for thread size classification, The most common units used for classifying thread sizes are, . Threads used for industrial sewing machines (industrial sewing thread) are generally categorized differently than for home sewing and below is an example from the. Learn how your comment data is processed. If you are using the wrong size thread you may have a jam in the machine, the thread may break or make a caterpillar. Lead time is 4 to 6 weeks. Dont ask me what happened to C and D! As I understand the V rating is a tenth of the Denier, hence V138 is 1380 Denier. But they always say how many meters/yards are there. You might recognize the term from descriptions of nylon fabrics, which are often classified by the denier of the threads from which they are woven. / 3-Ply Cones - 3280 Yds. The label tex 30 introduces another measurement type tex. Try to use a needle where the eye is 40% larger than the thickness of the thread. No, this is a denomination for an embroidery thread size, it means 2 strands twisted together, each strand 75 denier for a total of 150 denier. Ironically, the thread weight number which is derived from km/kg is used in North America while all US dimensions are still in inches/feet/yards! I am talking here about ranges in meters and yards. . A thinner thread is usually weight 50-60 and higher, tex 20 and lower, denier 180 and lower. Also, if you want to sew nice seams without seam puckering you should use the same size thread in the bobbin or thinner because if you use thicker thread in the bobbin you can get puckers in your seams. It shows how many kilometers of thread are needed to make 1kg. Weight for thick, heavy threads is a lower number (8, 10, etc). Poor overlooked, C and D. The letter system is used primarily for US Government Contracted work. However its in use, especially in Canada and Europe, and its not unusual to see threads marked in tex units even in the USA. Please note that the Tkt (Ticket) sizes are equivalent to Metric M thread sizes used in some countries. It shows how many kilometers of thread are needed to make 1kg. Here at the Do-It-Yourself Advice Blog, youll find instructions, inspiration, helpful advice, cool tools, and the more technical side to all things DIY for your home and boat. This label 27 wt denotes a thread having the weight 27. For industrial sewing threads it is important to understand the following terms: Industrial thread sizes are usually expressed by Tex size or Ticket number. Just a few: Metric ticket number (Nm), Cotton Count ( NeC, NeB, or Ne), Hong Kong Ticket (sometimes named far East), decitex, and others. But given that foot, inch, mile and so on have been replaced by the same organization since 1875 with the meter and we still use them 150 years later, I wouldnt put too much trust in the fact that Tex will become generally accepted any time soon. Commercial sizes are standard for marine grade thread (youll see commercial sizes on the Sailrite website for our outdoor thread). And a thicker thread is usually weight 30 and lower, tex 30 and higher, denier 300 and higher. When twist is added to the ply to make it a sewing thread, it adds anywhere from 1 - 6% to the total Denier (Twist Contraction). Seam Rippers, Needle Threaders and Basic Tools, Robison-Anton Polyester Embroidery Thread. The thread size measures the threads thickness. Larger denier numbers are heavier threads. Getting the proper thickness affects the strength, diameter, sewing machine used, and visibility. In the image below you can see a multitude of symbols that define the thread size. I have all these different spools at home and couldnt be more confused until I decided to study the problem and learn all the information about thread sizes. Because of the diversity of materials and construction methods, its not easy to categorize the threads. 69. I am talking here about ranges in meters and yards. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. The Tex number is the weight in grams of 1000m (1km) of thread. : holds a small amount of thread, around 250 yards or less usually. Were going to decode thread sizes and show you what each one means and how they compare with one another. The tension on your sewing machine will need adjusting when you switch thread weights. We can help by sending a reasonable number of samples, or by having you send the fabric or leather and matching it here. Commercial sizes are used for heavy-duty threads for sewing heavy upholstery, canvas or webbing. However its in use, especially in Canada and Europe, and its not unusual to see threads marked in , Fine Tex Threads . The chart compares various bonded nylon (or polyester) thread sizes and combines all in an easy to read sewing thread size chart: The V size is the common US measurement for twisted, multi-ply bonded nylon or polyester threads. These are not the only units though. If 1,000 meters weighs 70 grams, its a Tex 70 thread. I am confused at the Charts indicating V138 as Tex 135, I use V138 and the reels have Tex 150 on them.
polyester thread sizes